Are you sick of not having enough power to climb those hills or did those larger tires you installed suck the life out of your stock 4.0L engine? The Golen Engine 4.6L Jeep Stroker Engine with its 270hp and 300 ft lbs of torque will bring life back to your Jeep and make it enjoyable to drive again!!
Facts you need to know about the 4.6L Jeep Stroker Engine:
Find your model year below for more info
1991-2006 4.0L FUEL INJECTED JEEPS
If you have a 4.0L fuel injected Jeep from 1991-2006 you can simply purchase our bare long block and swap all of the parts from your stock 4.0L engine onto the new 4.6L Stroker. The only part that you will be required to upgrade will be the fuel injectors which will need to increase in size to 24lb's and we sell plug and play versions for all years. There is no tuning needed on 1991-2006 year models, your stock computer will run the engine without a problem and when running properly the Jeep Stroker will pass emissions in all 50 states with ease.
Included with Long Block:
Required parts to properly run fuel injected engines 1991-2006:
Optional Parts to gain a little more power:
Complete Engine Includes the following parts and services:
Optional Parts to gain a little more power:
1971-1990 4.2L CARBURETED JEEPS
If you have a 4.2L carbureted Jeep from 1971-1990 you can use all of your parts from your existing engine such as oil pan, timing cover, harmonic balancer, motor mounts, flywheel, starter and transmission. You will need to upgrade to an aftermarket performance intake manifold, tubular exhaust header and valve cover kit all of which we sell to give you all the parts needed for a smooth install. This will take you from the weak 120-150hp 4.2L power levels up to a tire turning 270hp and 300 foot pounds of torque!!!
Parts and Services Included in Jeep EFI Turn Key Engine:
Parts and Services Included in Jeep Carb Turn Key Engine:
DYNO BREAK IN SERVICE
We offer an extensive dyno break in service for our 4.6L Jeep stroker engine to ensure that it is running properly before you install it into your Jeep.Using our two brand new Superflow SF-902 Dynamometers we will run your engine for a complete break in cycle monitoring all engine vitals over the course of a few hours. Once the break in cycle is complete will be change oil, inspect the oil filter and re torque all fasteners. At this point we will run the engine between 10-15 full rpm pulls while recording all engine vitals and looking for consistent power readings from run to run. We will provide you with a video of your engine running on the dyno and accompany it with copies of the dyno readings for your records. Customers are always welcome to visit our shop and see their engines run on the dyno and take them home the same day, this service is by appointment only.
I fired it up today and followed all of your break in instructions. It went without a hitch! I just turned the key and it was running. (I’m sure glad that I ran the oil pump with the electric drill to pre-prime every thing) I don’t think it turned over 2 revolutions before it fired on! I changed the oil and checked the plugs after the cam break in period as instructed. Then came the surprise! As I let out the clutch for the first time and gently rolled away for the house, I stepped on the gas as I normally would have with the old engine. All I could say was Ooooh Shiiit. I quickly backed off. I just about gave my neighbor and my self whiplash. Its very snappy!
After a few miles I did as you instructed and got on it a little. I was shocked to say the least! From a 15-20 mph roll I stepped on it. My 37″ tires started to get loose and talk back! I grabbed second gear (as quick and slow as you can with a stock trans) and my 37′s talked back again! Not just a chirp but a good long BARK! When I came back to the house my neighbors were talking. (They are all Jeep nuts as well) Nobody could believe that a Jeep I6 could perform as this one did!Later in the day I went over to Maple Hill and again I was super surprised. In the past I would run 2nd gear at 4000rpm and then attempt to shift into 3rd just to fall on its face and then have to down shift back into 2nd. Well on this day I cruised it in 4th!!! I even had to let off on it so that I wasn’t speeding! (I didn’t try 5th as I am sure that it would have lugged).
I have to say that I am very, very impressed with this 4.6 Jeep. It wont beat my old 67 GT500 Mustang but it will give my 03 Eclipse V6 a run for the money though! I want to get it on the dyno this week so that I can get the timing, fuel pressure and the map all adjusted correctly. I cant wait to hit the trails with it.
Thank you for all that you have done!Very Happy Jeep 4.6 I6 Owner
I just wanted to say thanks for all of your help with my Jeep 4.6L swap. When my 4.0L died I considered my options for replacements. Its my daily driver, but I’ve lifted it for occasional off road trips and backcountry hunting trips. Reliability was my primary goal but more power would be an important bonus.
There isn’t a lot of places that build performance inline 6 cylinder engines for Jeeps, so finding one with outstanding customer service has been a definite plus. Right from the start I was impressed with the fact that it was the owner who took my call and answered all my questions and told me what to expect. He talked to me like I was an old friend. I placed my order and my engine was built ahead of schedule. It arrived in a massive wooden crate that is so sturdy, I now use it as a work bench.
Since I was doing this swap by myself, I cannot over emphasize how reassuring it was to have someone to call for advice. A few times, I called so many times, that I worried that I might be wearing out my welcome. But every time Chad answered the phone and talked me through what I had to do. At one point it occurred to me that every time I did call, I wasn’t patched through a secretary to a tech specialist or any crap like that. Every time I called, it was who Chad answered the phone.
With my engine installed it was time to start it up and break it in. Since I’ve never swapped in a new engine before, I followed Chad’s directions to the letter. I doubt if the starter engaged more than a dozen teeth before the engine roared to life and completed the cam break in. Then the trouble started. On the road the Jeep would launch like a dragster then sputter and choke. The tachometer was unstable and it would occasionally just stall. Once again the frantic calls to Chad were answered with a very methodical voice of reason. One potential issue after another was addressed in a calm logical manner, until the culprit, (a faulty JET Performance piggyback computer chip) was removed. Finally the fun could begin.
All I can say is, wow! It’s like having a V-8 but with added reliability and better gas economy. My Jeep Grand Cherokee has almost 1000 pounds of extra weight in after market skids and armor, (3650lbs. stock, 4590lbs. now) but it can blow the doors of my stock 1998 Grand Cherokee, or my sons stock 1995 Grand. With 4.10 gears and 31″ MT’s it pulls like mad off the line and gets even stronger all the way through 3500 rpm. I haven’t taken it past 70mph, but at 65mph, it just hums like an electric motor. Now with 650 miles of hard, break in miles on the clock, I am amazed to see that I am still getting 16+mpg. Once I start to drive normal again I will probably see 18 – 20 mpg. Mine and my sons stock ZJ’s get about that.
The quality of work is documented perfection. The engine is simply fantastic. But that would be useless if not for the personal service that Chad provided for me. Doing a job like this is stressful especially when its your first time and your doing it by yourself. From beginning to happy ending, I never felt alone.
Thanks Chad. Sincerely,
To whom it may concern,
Hey, I had to give some credit to Chad of Golen Engines. From the day I started to research what I wanted to do with my Jeep, his product has been on the top of my list.
It all started when I saw his engine in the Quadratec rag. Then I found a great write-up in JPMagazine called the Insane Inline. From there, link after link, everyone just raved about Golen Engines, so I emailed some questions to Chad. I found him to be very helpful as we discussed options and how my existing performance items would affect the engine. After several emails and a phone call I was ready. When I placed my order we went over everything to ensure the order was correct. A couple of days after the order he called and reconfirmed everything.
The order was shipped and received on time and much better than expected. In fact, Conn (Mig Offroad) , the guy who installed the engine made the following comment… “if that engine is built half as well as the crate it was shipped in, you got yourself one hell of an engine”… Not only did we get our engine, but also a complete packet of information from installation to recommended lubes, plugs, etc, etc and a complete break-in procedure. Nothing was left to the imagination except “how bad-ass this mother was going to run when completed” (big grin).
Through the entire install, Chad ALWAYS answered the phone and was very helpful with any questions we had. The instructions were very complete and precise, and the install went extremely smooth. The 20 minute crank breaking procedure went well and we were all very impressed.
I have since put about 1200 miles and two “wheeling days” on this engine. I run with a 3 speed automatic, and I would suggest anyone with an auto and stock breaks* UPGRADE! This bad boy has torque and you will stand on the breaks with both feet. I think the thing I like most is the way it sounds. At about 2500 RPM’s it just has a very pleasing, almost mesmerizing, hum while cruising down the road, and runs so smooth. I love it! I also like the fact that it’s so simple to maintain. No funky plugs, crazy computers or hocus pocus. It’s made to run well with the simply, common day items found at any auto store. Thumbs up!
I am a firm believer in “you get what you pay for” and I feel the value of the product and the service and support Chad has provided justified my investment. I’m looking forward to many fun “wheeling days” ahead.
Jim Blancet Lexington KY
We start off with a bare greasy block and put it into our electric oven where it bakes at 800 degrees for 5 hours. Once it comes out of the oven all the grease is turned to ash and it is ready for the blasting process. Our shot blaster shoots stainless steel shot at the block for 45 mins to get the cast iron back to new form.
We bore our blocks oversize using our Rottler bore mill.
Decking not only gives the block the proper surface finish to seal the head gasket but it also allows us to tighten the quench height.
Our new Sunnen SV-15 Hone keeps cylinders straight and perfectly round.
By line honing the blocks mainline we can blueprint the main bearing oil clearance to a perfect .002”.
We dynamically balance each crankshaft in our Hines Balancing machine for smooth engine operation and long life.
By honing the rod big and small ends we can blueprint the oil clearance and keep the housing bores straight and round.
We double check all housing bores to ensure they are all identical for proper bearing clearance
Our Sunnen VGS-20 seat and guide machine uses carbide cutters to lay in a perfect three angle performance valve job, this machine uses a pilot system to keep the valve job concentric to the valve guide.
We mill our aluminum valve cover so it is ready for our Golen Engine 4.6L Stroker Sticker.
SETTING THE JEEP DISTRIBUTOR TIMING
JEEP CAMSHAFT BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
Follow all of the steps in the “Startup Guidelines” before attempting to start your new Jeep engine.
Get the distributor set properly so the engine will fire off immediately by following the steps in “Setting up the Jeep Distributor”.
Start the engine and make sure you have oil pressure and a good idle for 15-20 seconds without using any throttle. If it doesn’t idle well, you need to shut the engine down and determine the cause of the problem before performing the cam break-in. If this occurs, call the Golen tech line @ 800-591-9171, Monday through Friday, 9am to 5pm Eastern time.
Assuming oil pressure and idle are good, bring the engine up to 2000 rpm. You will keep the engine at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes watching for oil or anti-freeze leaks, oil pressure, and engine temperature. Also listen for general engine operation. The lifters may take up to 20 minutes to complete pump-up and during this time may make some noise.
If anything needs to be sealed or repaired during break-in, or if the engine overheats, shut the engine down, note how much time is left for the break-in, and repair the issue. Then start the engine back up and continue break-in.
After the cam break-in has been completed, you need change both the oil and the oil filter. After the oil and filter have been changed, you may then perform the final inspection steps in “Startup Guidelines” and further adjust your timing.
HOW TO PRIME THE JEEP OIL PUMP
Priming the oil pump in your Jeep engine brings the oil pressure up to normal before the engine is started.
This will protect the engine from premature failure cause by a dry start. Dry start is a condition whereby the engine is initially run for a short time without any lubrication on the bearings. This can wipe and spin bearings and cause quick and devastating damage to the engine internals. Priming the engine using the following instructions ensures that the first time it is started there is proper lubrication on all internal parts.
Once the engine has been primed and run for the first time, a thin layer of oil always remains on all of the bearings and protects them for those first few critical seconds during startup while the pressure builds up.
Priming the oil pump is the most important step to take just before starting your engine for the first time.